Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
